Melt away with these crabbed-up sandwiches
Are you down with cheese and seafood or are you a scaredy cat? This week I tackle another dish my mom made when I was a kid and elevate it a touch while turning it into a sandwich inside of homemade sourdough English muffins.
Read Time: 12 minutes
Italian chefs, in particular, have had a serious problem with the mixture of cheese and seafood. But I personally feel that it can work great if they’re paired properly. The issues with cheese and seafood dishes are rooted in the fact that seafood, like shrimp or lobster meat, is delicate and might be overpowered by strong flavors. Those chefs put a great deal of effort into focusing and highlighting the light flavors of fish, and they probably feel that grating a pile of Parmesan on top would ruin that balance.
I can understand that point of view, but I would also like to introduce you to delicious things like lobster mac and cheese, seafood Alfredo, shrimp over cheesy grits, or even a New York City bagel stuffed with lox and cream cheese. Sometimes the combination just works.
This sandwich I’m writing about today has a focus on a blend of crab meat and processed cheese. Yeah, you read that correctly, but we’ll also introduce a pickled element in the form of a crunchy slaw. Along with the cheesy crab and slaw, I’m sharing a great way to use up sourdough discard and my newest bread recipe in the form of sourdough English muffins. It’s currently hot as heck, so English muffins work pretty well since you don’t have to bake them in the oven.
What is this sandwich?
This is a crab and cheese-filled sandwich that’s paired with a pickled okra slaw inside of homemade sourdough English muffins. Even if you’re angry about cheese and crab in the same dish, most of that sounds pretty good, right?
When I was a kid, my mom used to cook something that we called “crab melts.” Like a lot of recipes that were cooked before the 21st Century, these recipes were shared from family to family in church cookbooks or passed around on handwritten note cards. I’m not sure where my mom got the recipe originally, but it’s very similar, if not the same, as a lot of others that you will now find online.
A search on Google will come up with tons of recipes that all use similar ingredients. My mom called these crab melts, but you can find recipes for crab delights, crabbies, crab meltaways, or even deviled crab melts. This cheesy crab concept, or something very similar, even shows up in a movie that I do not remember watching, but my wife claims I did, called Silver Linings Playbook. The dish that Bradley Cooper’s character gets so excited about takes on the name “Crabby snacks.” All of these crab recipes I’ve linked to and mentioned are practically identical; they all contain Kraft Old English cheese, and they seem to have been most popular along the East Coast of the United States.
The earliest recipe I found was from the early 1980s, but some online sources claim crab meltaways were invented in the 1960s, and it’s very possible that someone at Kraft created the recipe in a marketing ploy to promote the spreadable Old English cheese.
Kraft Old English cheese spread is a product that was invented at some point in the 1930s and might not always be easy to find. It’ll be near the Cheez Wiz in an unrefrigerated section of the store if your grocery stocks it. If you can’t find Kraft Old English cheese spread, you can get it online, or some recipes I’ve seen call for shredded cheddar, but I think your textures would be different.
Below are a couple of examples of crab meltaways that I found on archive.org. This is one of those recipes, like ham delights, that are simply ALL OVER the internet with everyone taking massive inspiration from other recipes.
Below are photos of my mom’s recipe, which is very similar to the other two recipes I’ve already shared. My mom was collecting family recipes into a book to share with the rest of our family and friends, and I’ve found that a lot of recipes from that era were composed of very similar ingredient lists with differing instructions. I didn’t even ask her because she’s been making crab melts for 40+ years, but she either got inspiration for the recipe from a cookbook or magazine, or it was from another friend before she added it to her collection.
You can totally see how much abuse my mom’s cookbook has received over the past 15+ years since she had it printed. My mom’s recipe, plus her instructions, is what I used to base the sandwich recipe I end up sharing down below.
If you’re a Southerner from the United States, you might be aware of another crab dish that was very popular in the 1980s and 90s, which is called deviled crab. As you’re reading this, you might be wondering if that is similar to crab melts?
What is deviled crab?
I do not have any proof of this, but it seems likely to me that deviled crab could have been the precursor to crab melts.
There are two different dishes that take on the name of deviled crab. One was invented in the Tampa region of Florida, and it’s very similar to what Marylanders would call a fried crab cake. The second type of deviled crab originated on the east coast of the United States, somewhere between Georgia and Maryland, and in this version, crab meat is mixed with bread crumbs and spices and then added back to the opened crab shell to be served and eaten with a fork. This version is more similar to what East Coasters would call a crab meltaway or crabbie snacks, minus the processed cheese and with the addition of bread crumbs. Deviled crab is often stuffed back inside the hollowed-out crab shell and served that way.
Now that we know what sandwich we’re making, we need to make some bread, but first, I want to discuss my newest and most favorite way to use the discard that’s created in the sourdough process.
Sourdough discard cracker bread
I got into this a little bit in the last sourdough-focused bread recipe that I shared, but the feeding process involved with sourdough is pretty annoying. To keep your starter active, you have to feed it a couple of times a day by removing and discarding a large amount of the starter, and then you add more flour and water. The disposable part of the starter has to either be thrown out, or you can find a use for it in pretty much any application that requires water and flour. I have tried and created easy recipes that use sourdough discard for pancakes, waffles, and crackers that you roll out and slice before baking.
But my new favorite use for the leftover flour, water, and naturally occurring yeast is simply adding butter, salt, cheese, and black pepper to create a rustic sort of “cracker bread.” It’s hard to describe what this bread actually is; it’s sort of a cross between a cracker and breadsticks. It reminds me of something that might be tucked into the bread basket at a fancy restaurant. It’s soft and crunchy at the same time, and it doesn’t require any extra flour. The best part is you simply mix the ingredients, spread them onto a parchment-lined sheet pan with a knife or offset spatula until the discard mix is thin, and then bake it.
It’s hard to create a recipe for this that I can share because the amount of discard that you’ll have will vary, so I once again created a very easy calculator that you can plug in the amount of discard that you have, and it will calculate how much of the other ingredients you will need to make a great batch of “cracker bread.” This is all using something similar to a “baker’s formula” to calculate 1 percent of salt and the right amount of butter and cheese that will create great flavor.
Check out my discard cracker bread calculator below. Next time you’re feeding your starter, you can apply it and have a simple recipe to create something tasty.
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<p><small>This tool will build an ingredient list to help you turn your sourdough discard into parmesan and black pepper cracker bread.
Enter the amount—in grams—of sourdough discard that you have on hand and the Sourdough Discard Cracker Bread Calculator will do the rest.</small></p>
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Sourdough English muffins
This is my same English muffin recipe that I have shared before, except I swapped in Dr. John Starter for the instant yeast in that recipe. The original English muffin recipe called for a poolish, which is really just a fake sourdough starter anyway. A poolish is a mixture of flour, water, and yeast, and that’s exactly what a sourdough starter is as well.
Typically, with a poolish, you allow it to ferment overnight, which will give your bread just a bit more flavor. In this case, we replace the poolish with some sourdough starter, which brings even more sour flavor to the finished muffins.
Once the dough has proven for an hour or two (depending on the strength of your sourdough starter) you start out portioning the dough and then shaping it into balls like you’re making burger buns. The balls are flattened a bit and placed on a semolina or cornmeal-dusted parchment-lined sheet pan.
You’re not going to bake in this pan, so the shaped muffin dough can be close together. The dough portions will be carefully moved to a griddle or pan on fairly low heat to cook.
You should start with a griddle or pan set to fairly low heat. I typically will cook for 3 minutes or so and then flip. If you know you have hot and cool spots on your griddle, you might need to rotate and flip to get the proper color on the exterior. You’re cooking these to color, and the internal temperature needs to be around 190 to 200 F. If the exterior is getting too dark, you can remove them to a sheet pan and finish baking them in the oven for about 10 minutes at 350 F.
Here’s my sourdough English muffin recipe that you can tackle when your kitchen cools off. Or you can just buy English muffins and get to work on the cheesy and crabby bits.
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<p class="card-text">Put your sourdough starter to work with this easy English muffin recipe. If your starter is not doubling every 4 to 6 hours, you may want to use the instant yeast in the recipe. Otherwise, you can leave it out.</p>
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Cheesy and Englishy crab
I’m sure the cheese in these crab melts is a big turn-off for a lot of people. Almost all of the recipes online call for the same type and brand, which is Kraft Old English spreadable cheese, a processed cheese spread that tastes more like cheez wiz than any cheese I’ve ever tried that came from England. But honestly, a bigger problem I have with it is that the people at Kraft really should have spelled it Olde instead of just Old.
The concept and process for making crab melts is simple. You melt the butter and cheese together, and then you turn off the heat and mix all the other ingredients. Then you spread the mixture on top of split English muffins and freeze them. The beauty of freezing prior to baking means that you can store a lot of these in the freezer to be used whenever you’re ready.
I would bet that most people who make crab melts are making them specifically for use as appetizers for a party, so the freezing process means that you can do a lot of the work up front and then whip them out when it’s time to party.
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