These reviews were originally posted on Reddit (now deleted) on November 15, 2021. I’ve replaced links with archive links if necessary (and available) and made minor formatting changes and corrections, but otherwise haven’t done any editing or updating. Some links are broken, and a lot of the information has to be outdated by now. Most, if not all, of the products have been reformulated or discontinued since.

Disclaimers (2026)

• This is all specific to the products as sold in Japan as of 2021 or earlier. What seem like the same products may have different formulations etc. in other countries (example) and in the present day, so make sure to double check specifically for what you would be buying. (And also, double check in case I got anything wrong or got different products mixed up or something.)
• I’ve added my usual disclaimer under all the ingredient lists, but take it all with an extra large grain of salt because this post was from before I learned more about ingredient names.

[Reviews] Japanese sunscreens pt. 3: Allie Extra UV Gel N, Canmake Mermaid Skin Gel UV [01] Clear and [02] White, Surfer’s Diane Perfect UV Milk, Nalc Perfect Waterproof UV Protect, Skin Aqua Super Moisture Essence Gold, X-Barrier Skin Protect UV Cream, etc.

Most of the reviews were written at various points of time in February–June 2021 (which is why each one is so long), with some editing as of July–September 2021 and just now. I wanted to wait until I had a chance to spend more time under the sun while wearing more of these products, but summer has come and gone and I think it’s time to give up. Sorry if I’ve accidentally ended up writing the same thing twice anywhere with all the piecemeal editing.

Premise

• Skin type: Dry/dehydrated, somewhat sensitive/reactive. Sun allergy (possibly solar urticaria). Maybe Fitzpatrick skin phototype III otherwise, but I’m not sure.
• Skin tone: Pale East Asian (NC15/N12 according to Findation). I’m not the best judge of whether there’s a white cast or not.
• Climate: Japan – hot (highest extremes around 38 ºC or 100 ºF), humid, UVI 10+ in the summer—you may have seen all those Olympics athletes getting heat strokes this year—and fairly cold (lowest extremes around -3 ºC or 26 ºF), not extremely dry, UVI maybe 3–4 in the winter.
• Other usage conditions: I haven’t been outside much at all since the beginning of 2020, especially while the sun is out. (For posterity: I’m writing this during the COVID-19 pandemic.) Everything I write in this post will be in reference to VERY limited incidental sun exposure only. Also, I usually use other forms of sun protection in addition to sunscreen if I’m going outside.
• Specific criteria: SPF 50+ PA++++ (the highest ratings currently possible in Japan) and ideally water and friction resistant. I’ve been trying to remember that not everyone wants or even needs all that, but forgive me if I forget this at any point in this post. I’m not against fragrance as long as it doesn’t specifically bother me in that formula, though I do generally favor fragrance-free products simply based on the smell standpoint (as opposed to any concerns about the ingredients). I will list “x-free” claims under the marketing claims, but I don’t actually care about them.
• Other notes: Some of these products may have different versions that are made for different countries. In all cases, I’m specifically talking about the version officially sold in Japan.
• TL;DR ratings: HG = holy grail, RP = will repurchase or have repurchased, WNRP = will not repurchase.

The sunscreens (mostly in chronological order)

1. Allie Extra UV Gel N (additional note): Still HG and I think I’m going to quit trying other things for a while
2. Canmake Mermaid Skin Gel UV [01] Clear (2020 formulation): Might RP for limited purposes, but most likely WNRP
3. Canmake Mermaid Skin Gel UV [02] White (2020 formulation?): WNRP because I bought it by mistake
4. Surfer’s Diane Perfect UV Milk: WNRP because I think I’m not a milk person after all, and also because I’m now feeling a little wary of OEM/ODM sunscreens (but mostly the former)
5. Nalc Perfect Waterproof UV Protect: DEFINITELY WNRP because it stung my eyes like hell and gave me the worst product experience in recent memory
6. Skin Aqua Super Moisture Essence Gold: RP as a body sunscreen, mostly for its price
7. X-Barrier Skin Protect UV Cream: Might RP if I’m suffering from extremely dry skin, but mostly WNRP
8. (Neither Japanese nor a sunscreen, but) La Roche-Posay Uvidea XL BB Cream in 01 Light: RP for blue light protection
9. Sample pouches – Bioré UV Aqua Rich Aqua Protect Lotion: WNRP because it’s sticky and too fragrant (but no more fragrant than other Bioré UV products)

As of September, I’m currently settled on using the Allie gel on my face (and on my body if I’m going to be outside for an extended amount of time, which I never am any more), and the Skin Aqua essence on my body for incidental sun exposure (not because I don’t trust it but because I already know for a fact that I can trust the Allie gel, and I have both open anyway). I don’t wear the Skin Aqua on my face because it stings my eyes. —And as of November, I just wear the Allie gel on my face, neck, and hands, and am covered up otherwise.

1. Allie Extra UV Gel N

Product info

• Product name in Japanese: アリィー エクストラUV ジェルN
• Images: https://imgur.com/a/tOzwqww
• Version: 2020 formula made and distributed in Japan by Kanebo
• Rating/Category: SPF 50+ PA++++ / Gel / Water resistant for at least 80 min.
• Links: Brand website, Kanebo product catalogue entry, RatzillaCosme
• List price: Not given; 2178 JPY for 90 g where I bought it recently = 24.2 JPY/g
• Marketing claims: Friction-proof, “super waterproof” (passed 80 min. water resistance test), ADVAN Technology, moisturizing, can be washed off with soap (i.e., second cleanser or body wash), fragrance-free, paraben-free, can use as makeup primer, for use on face and body
• UV filters: Combination – Zinc Oxide, Octinoxate, Bemotrizinol aka Tinosorb S, Octyltriazone aka Uvinul T 150

My thoughts

• Period used: Ongoing since June 2020 (review mostly written in February 2021)
• TL;DR rating: Still HG and I think I’m going to quit trying other things for a while

Original review here (as of November 2020). I just wanted to add that I’m now fully convinced that the “friction-proof” technology has indeed been improved, because I have a matte puffer jacket that’s extremely prone to getting sunscreen palm prints all over it and I don’t have that problem with this product. I really appreciate not having a white trace all over everything I own—something I’ve long accepted as a fact of life—and this is especially great right now because this probably means the product is less likely to budge under my mask. This officially means I am very happy with this reformulation.

I don’t find it particularly drying or dehydrating in spite of the alcohol, but I’ve been stepping up my Differin use so my skin is more dry/dehydrated than usual, and I decided to experiment with other sunscreens to see whether it might possibly make a difference (hence the rest of the reviews). I still consider this to be my “default” sunscreen, though, and I always have a tube open concurrently with any other sunscreens I’m trying out. It will be the baseline for comparisons in this post, so I will keep mentioning “the Allie gel” in my reviews for other sunscreens.

As I discuss in the other reviews (starting with the Nalc product), there has been a new development involving some sunscreens now hurting my eyes. I don’t have this problem with the Allie gel (THANK GOD) even if I apply it directly on my eyelids—and it’s even literally gotten in my eyes, based on how my contacts clouded up temporarily once—which has further cemented its HG status for me. I also know for a fact that it doesn’t cause or aggravate my acne because I’ve gone through both good times and bad with this one, even just within the past year. But I think both eye-stinging and acne are caused by different things for different people, so what’s fine for me won’t necessarily be universally fine for everyone.

(See also this post, where I discuss SPF/PA testing and various details regarding this particular sunscreen and the Allie brand as a whole, including a comparison with the version sold in China, which is probably similar to the previous formulation of the Japanese version but isn’t entirely the same. I also have questions about the ingredient lists on SkinCarisma and INCI Decoder.)

Ingredients: Water, Zinc Oxide, Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Octinoxate), Dimethicone, Isononyl Isononanoate, Butylene Glycol, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Bemotrizinol aka Tinosorb S), Ethylhexyl Triazone (Octyltriazone aka Uvinul T 150), Glycerin, Isopropyl Palmitate, Triethylhexanoin, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Acrylates/Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer, PEG-400, Polysorbate 80, Polysilicone-9, Xanthan Gum, C30-45 Alkyl Methicone, C30-45 Olefin, Sorbitan Oleate, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Collagen

Disclaimer: I’m just a bilingual sunscreen enthusiast with no background in science. If you’re allergic to anything, double-check to make sure I didn’t get anything wrong.

2. Canmake Mermaid Skin Gel UV [01] Clear

Product info

• Product name in Japanese: キャンメイク マーメイドスキンジェルUV［01］クリア
• Images: https://imgur.com/a/0Dl08Jm
• Version: 2020 formula made and distributed in Japan by Ida Laboratories
• Rating/Category: SPF 50+ PA++++ / Gel / No water resistance claims
• Links: Official website (in English), official website (in Japanese), RatzillaCosme
• List price: 700 JPY incl. tax for 40 g = 17.5 JPY/g
• Marketing claims: Can be washed off with soap (i.e., second cleanser or body wash), for all seasons, moisturizing, for face and body, can use right after washing face as skincare/moisturizing primer/SPF primer, 85% composed of skincare (serum) ingredients
• UV filters: Combination – Octinoxate, DHHB aka Uvinul A Plus, Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide, Bemotrizinol aka Tinosorb S

My thoughts

• Period used: On and off from late February to early April 2021 (review mostly written in March 2021)
• TL;DR rating: Might RP for limited purposes, but most likely WNRP
• PSA: Make sure to reapply extra diligently!!

I stopped buying this in 2019 because I suspected it might be aggravating my acne, but I wasn’t sure so I tried giving it a second chance. I think I was mistaken after all, since my acne has both improved and worsened while I was using it this time. But anyway, I later found out that this product was kind of stealth-reformulated in 2020 without any announcements that I know of (see this post). The 2019 formula contains Polymethylsilsesquioxane and the 2020 formula does not; there are also some differences in the order of some of the ingredients in the list. It seems like some people have experienced more of a white cast with the 2020 formula, but I haven’t used the previous formulation in over a year and honestly couldn’t tell the difference.

More importantly (for me), my sun allergy symptoms have continued to worsen bit by bit, and they now actually begin to emerge from being under the brightest (old-fashioned fluorescent) light in my home without any sunscreen for too long. It is of course mild and just leaving whatever I had on from earlier in the day is usually sufficient; with Allie Extra UV Gel N, if I’m completely staying at home all day (there’s hardly any natural light in my home), I put it on once in the morning plus 0–2 reapplications during the day depending on how my skin feels (usually once with a smaller amount than in the morning), and that’s it. The same works for the Surfer’s Diane sunscreen reviewed below.

If I do the same thing with the Canmake gel, my symptoms begin to emerge at some point, definitely by the evening. They don’t claim to be “friction-proof” or even water resistant like most of the other sunscreens in this post, so this is 100% on me. I do find that I’m fine if I make sure to reapply at least once every few hours (when staying home; I would definitely make sure to reapply at least once every 2 hours if I’m outside, probably more frequently to be safe in my case—though I’ve only ever worn this indoors to start with), but honestly it’s such a hassle to have to keep doing this into the night.

—Which is not to say that I have any reason to believe it isn’t SPF 50+ PA++++, just that I don’t think it’s budge-proof, which it doesn’t claim to be. I think a lot of people forget (or may be unaware) that Canmake is a makeup brand and that they sell this as a makeup primer with UV protective properties, which is common for face sunscreens here—though they do say you can use it on your body, too—and they never suggest that you should rely on this for anything more than incidental sun exposure. (Since it’s technically a makeup primer: Maybe it would stay put better with makeup on top? I wasn’t really wearing makeup during this time and can’t say myself.)

I also think it’s actually more drying/dehydrating than the Allie gel by the end of the day, which is perplexing because it really does feel like a gel cream moisturizer upon application. It’s not that bad if I’m reapplying frequently, though, which I need to be doing anyway.

There are (very) limited circumstances where I want to temporarily slap on a light sunscreen that I could at least mostly wash off with a second cleanser, kind of an interim sunscreen until I can do my full routine and either put on a more tenacious sunscreen or go to bed, and I might possibly keep a tube on hand for that purpose. So personally, the tininess of the tube is actually a good thing. —Or so I thought until now, in November 2021, when I’ve had the White tube open for 7 months and am still nowhere near using it up. I’ll probably have to toss it soon… (As far as I know, sunscreens are supposed to be used up within 3–6 months after opening them.)

I haven’t used this since my eyes started hurting, so I don’t know whether it would also hurt my eyes now or not.

Ingredients: Water, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Octinoxate), Butylene Glycol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB aka Uvinul A Plus), Zinc Oxide, Methylheptyl Laurate, Titanium Dioxide, Dimethicone, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cyclopentasiloxane, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Bemotrizinol aka Tinosorb S), Diisostearyl Malate, Aluminum Hydroxide, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Stearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Jojoba Esters, Xanthan Gum, Arginine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Alpha-Glucan, Phytic Acid, Saxifraga Sarmentosa (Strawberry Geranium) Extract, Glucosyl Ceramide, Prunus Yedoensis (Yoshino Cherry) Leaf Extract, Coix Lacryma-Jobi (Job’s Tears) Seed Extract, Morus Alba (White Mulberry) Root Extract, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Seed Extract, Silver Oxide, Spiraea Ulmaria (Meadowsweet) Flower Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Leaf Extract, Cynara Scolymus (Artichoke) Leaf Extract

Disclaimer: I’m just a bilingual sunscreen enthusiast with no background in science. If you’re allergic to anything, double-check to make sure I didn’t get anything wrong.

3. Canmake Mermaid Skin Gel UV [02] White

Product info

• Product name in Japanese: キャンメイク マーメイドスキンジェルUV［02］ホワイト
• Images: https://imgur.com/a/Ek0atVm
• Version: 2020 formula? made and distributed in Japan by Ida Laboratories
• Rating/Category: SPF 50+ PA++++ / Gel / No water resistance claims
• Links: Official website (in English), official website (in Japanese), RatzillaCosme; click on the [02] White swatch to see the information for this specific product on the official website
• List price: 700 JPY incl. tax for 40 g = 17.5 JPY/g (same as [01] Clear)
• Marketing claims: Can be washed off with soap (i.e., second cleanser or body wash), for all seasons, moisturizing, for face and body, can use right after washing face as skincare/moisturizing primer/SPF primer, 83% composed of skincare (serum) ingredients; “tone-up” version
• UV filters: Combination – Octinoxate, Titanium Dioxide, DHHB aka Unvinul A Plus, Zinc Oxide, Bemotrizinol aka Tinosorb S

My thoughts

• Period used: Opened in April 2021 and used occasionally; still struggling to finish the tube (review mostly written in April 2021)
• TL;DR rating: WNRP because I bought it by mistake
• PSA: This is a tone-up sunscreen and has a strong white cast by design. The tubes look similar so be careful to make sure you’re getting the one you want!

This is the “tone-up” version of the same sunscreen reviewed above, by which I mean there’s an intentional white cast meant to make your skin look brighter. I’m not the right person to be reviewing this because I don’t even like “tone-up” sunscreens, but I wanted to note that the packages look extremely similar, especially if there are only images of the tubes rather than the boxes, so make sure you’ve picked the one you want. I’ve never gotten them mixed up when I bought them in actual stores because the tubes are encased in plastic boxes that are easier to differentiate—the Clear version has a big gold star on the box and the White version has a blue one—but this time, I picked the wrong listing when I ordered it online.

Compared to the Clear version, the White version has a firmer texture, which makes sense since titanium dioxide is higher up in the ingredient list. I think it might be a bit more drying, too. It definitely has a white cast, but that’s the point. I suppose what matters is that it isn’t streaky. I look absolutely ridiculous if I put on what I would consider a sufficient amount, and personally I would never recommend it to anyone, but then again, I’m not into tone-up sunscreens in general. I guess if you’re looking for a significantly white tone-up product, this could be it.

I’ve only ever used this for the “interim sunscreen” purpose I mention at the end of the Clear review, so I don’t really know how it actually performs. I assume you would need to reapply this extra-diligently too, same as the Clear version. It seems like it doesn’t hurt my eyes, but then again, it never stays on for all that long.

I don’t know whether the ingredients are different from what was first sold in 2019 or not (hence the “?” in “2020 formula?”), but I’m guessing it’s possible since the formulation seems similar to the Clear version. The ingredients that are in the White version that aren’t in the Clear version are Octyldodecanol, Trihydroxystearin, Alumina, and Silica. All ingredients listed for the current Clear version are also in the White version.

Ingredients: Water, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Octinoxate), Butylene Glycol, Titanium Dioxide, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB aka Unvinul A Plus), Zinc Oxide, Methylheptyl Laurate, Dimethicone, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cyclopentasiloxane, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Bemotrizinol aka Tinosorb S), Diisostearyl Malate, Octyldodecanol, Aluminum Hydroxide, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Jojoba Esters, Xanthan Gum, Trihydroxystearin, Alumina, Silica, Arginine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Alpha-Glucan, Phytic Acid, Saxifraga Sarmentosa (Strawberry Geranium) Extract, Glucosyl Ceramide, Prunus Yedoensis (Yoshino Cherry) Leaf Extract, Coix Lacryma-Jobi (Job’s Tears) Seed Extract, Morus Alba (White Mulberry) Root Extract, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Seed Extract, Silver Oxide, Spiraea Ulmaria (Meadowsweet) Flower Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Leaf Extract, Cynara Scolymus (Artichoke) Leaf Extract

Disclaimer: I’m just a bilingual sunscreen enthusiast with no background in science. If you’re allergic to anything, double-check to make sure I didn’t get anything wrong.

4. Surfer’s Diane Perfect UV Milk

Product info

• Product name in Japanese: Surfer’s Diane ノンケミカル処方 UVミルク
• Images: https://imgur.com/a/OzujX3D
• Version: 2020 formula? made in Japan by the OEM/ODM company Medicos and distributed by NatureLab in Japan
• Rating/Category: SPF 50+ PA++++ / Milk / Water resistant for at least 200 min.
• Links: Company website, brand website
• List price: 2530 JPY incl. tax for 50 mL = 50.6 JPY/mL
• Marketing claims: “Reef safe;” can be used for outdoor sports; no/minimal white cast; for face and body; “super waterproof” (passed 200 min. water resistance test); can be washed off with soap (i.e., second cleanser or body wash); “organic herb extracts,” extracts from algae from Bretagne, France; inorganic (mineral) filters only (“non-chemical”), fragrance-free, colorant-free, mineral oil-free, paraben-free
• UV filters: Inorganic (mineral) – Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide

My thoughts

• Period used: February–April 2021 (review mostly written in March 2021)
• TL;DR rating: WNRP because I think I’m not a milk person after all, and also because I’m now feeling a little wary of OEM/ODM sunscreens (but mostly the former)

u/thelizmageddon asked about this one while I was sitting on this post. Here’s my full review:

I picked this up at my local drugstore by mistake because for some reason I thought it was alcohol-free (because I was wondering whether using alcohol-free sunscreens would actually help with my dry/dehydrated skin), which it isn’t. Of the three products in the sunscreen category from this brand, this one is advertised as being the most tenacious (water resistant up to 200 minutes, though it does also say you have to reapply every 2–3 hours for full protection). The essence is supposed to be the most hydrating and is alcohol-free (which is how I got mixed up; I would’ve picked this one except it’s SPF 31 PA+++), and there’s a makeup primer with SPF 35 PA+++. All three are mineral sunscreens with no chemical filters. They make reef safety a central feature; I do like that the tubes are encased in paper packaging instead of the typical plastic. (As an aside, here’s some information from Lab Muffin on reef safety and sunscreen.)

The essence has rosemary and geranium fragrancing, but the milk contains no fragrance and actually doesn’t really smell like anything. If you really press your nose up to it, I guess you can faintly smell the alcohol and some other unidentifiable (to me) ingredients. Five stars from me because I very much prefer products that smell like nothing to those that smell way too strong. (The Allie gel is also fragrance-free and just has a whiff of alcohol when you first apply it.) Although I will note that I probably wouldn’t notice a faint sunscreen smell at this point in my life, after wearing sunscreen every day for more than 20 years.

As far as I can tell, the white cast really is minimal for a mineral sunscreen. I do need to be in front of a mirror when I rub it into my face, to make sure it’s not pooled up in any crevices, and it definitely goes on white but it seems to mostly settle in. I can’t say how it would work on darker skin tones, but it’s hardly detectable on me. I would also say it’s pretty cosmetically elegant for a mineral sunscreen; in fact, I would argue that it may be comparable with combination sunscreens (same for the white cast too). It feels greasy when I’m applying the full amount, but that somehow settles down, too. It almost feels like I’m not wearing sunscreen as long as I don’t touch my face, and it’s just a little bit sticky if I do.

While they claim that this sunscreen can be washed off with soap, I find that I definitely need to double cleanse. I was always unsure whether the Allie gel fulfills the same claim, but it’s at least much easier to wash off my palms with regular hand soap than this one. The upside is of course that this sunscreen (and probably milk sunscreens in general) is more likely to stay on your skin for longer and is probably more outdoor-sports-appropriate. Unlike the Allie gel, however, it does turn my belongings white, but not too much more than any other sunscreen I’ve used, including previous versions of the Allie gel. Having to use a cleansing oil before hand wash to get it off my palms immediately after application was a bit of a hassle.

In further comparison with the Allie gel, I think it might possibly be less dehydrating but more drying. I think I always feel like this with all milk sunscreens, but on some days it makes these dry patches on my face more obvious—not right away, but with time—and I feel like I need to drop everything and exfoliate ASAP. I’ve been trying to pay more attention to reviews by people with different skin types, and I think milk sunscreens in general tend to be better for oily skin and gel/essence sunscreens for dry skin. Not always—YMMV plus there will be differences across specific products—but as a general tendency.

All in all, I can see it possibly being a good choice for someone who’s specifically looking for a milk sunscreen with no chemical UV filters. I’m not sure I would recommend it for people with extremely sensitive skin, though, because it does contain a ton of ingredients and it would be hell trying to figure out what the culprit is if something goes wrong. It doesn’t seem to contain any especially sensitizing essential oils, but I could be wrong. I felt protected enough to feel okay wearing this sunscreen outside during the day, which is more than I can say for the Canmake sunscreen. Personally I don’t enjoy having to rub my face so much every time, though, which seems to be unavoidable with mineral sunscreens in general. It’s also particularly impractical for reapplication, especially if you’re out and about and want to use your phone (or touch anything at all) right after.

Ingredients: Zinc Oxide, Isododecane, Water, Dimethicone, Alcohol, Isopropyl Myristate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Titanium Dioxide, Triethylhexanoin, PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Isostearic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Himanthalia Elongata (Brown Algae) Extract, Hypnea Musciformis (Hypneaceae) Extract, Limonium Gerberi Extract, Alaria Esculenta (Brown Algae) Extract, Rosa Roxburghii (Chestnut Rose) Fruit Extract, Inula Crithmoides (Golden Samphire) Flower/Leaf Extract, Althaea Officinalis (Marshmallow) Root Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (German Chamomile) Flower Extract, Carbenia Benedicta (Blessed Thistle) Extract, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract, Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme) Flower/Leaf Extract, Rosa Damascena (Damask Rose) Flower Extract, Calendula Officinalis (Pot Marigold) Flower Extract, Artemisia Absinthium (Mugwort) Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil, Lupinus Albus (White Lupine) Seed Oil, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Oil, Theobroma Grandiflorum (Cupuacu) Seed Butter, Adansonia Digitata (Baobab) Seed Oil, Carapa Guaianensis (Crabwood) Seed Oil, Sclerocarya Birrea (Marula) Seed Oil, Prunus Domestica (Plum) Seed Extract, Glycerin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Caprylate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Sodium Lactate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Diisostearyl Malate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Distearyldimonium Chloride, Isopropyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Aluminum Hydroxide

Disclaimer: I’m just a bilingual sunscreen enthusiast with no background in science. If you’re allergic to anything, double-check to make sure I didn’t get anything wrong.

5. Nalc Perfect Waterproof UV Protect

Product info

• Product name in Japanese: NALC パーフェクトウォータープルーフ日焼け止めジェル
• Images: https://imgur.com/a/0bquIfk
• Version: 2018 formula? made in Japan by the OEM/ODM company Toyo Shinyaku and distributed by Nalc in Japan
• Rating/Category: SPF 50+ PA++++ / Gel / Water resistant
• Links: Official website
• List price: 2729 JPY incl. tax for 60 g = 45.483333333 JPY/g
• Marketing claims: New (as of 2018) three-phase emulsion method prevents product from emulsifying when wet; can be used at the beach; water resistant; paraben-free, fragrance-free, alcohol-free, colorant-free, mineral oil-free, surfactant-free; safe for sensitive skin and children; non-sticky and spreads easily; no white cast; can be used as a makeup primer; can be washed off with soap (i.e., second cleanser or body wash); contains hyaluronic acid for hydration, dipotassium glycyrrhizate for sun damage; blocks UVA 1 (and UVA 2); contains sophora root extract to address damage from tyrosinase and elastase (by which I guess they mean it’s an antioxidant and will reduce oxidative stress)
• UV filters: Organic (chemical) – Octinoxate, DHHB aka Unvinul A Plus, Polysilicone-15 aka Parsol SLX

My thoughts

• Period used: Three days in April 2021, died from eye pain for three days, tried again for two, gave up on using it on my face after dying from eye pain again, and tried using it on my ankles one day in June 2021 before giving up entirely (review mostly written in May 2021)
• TL;DR rating: DEFINITELY WNRP because it stung my eyes like hell and gave me the worst product experience in recent memory

I think I first heard about this sunscreen a couple of years ago, but I was kind of suspicious because I’ve never heard of the brand aside from a few Japanese beauty YouTubers mentioning it. (In my experience, a lot of beauty influencers in Japan aren’t very clear about sponsorships and the like—for example, there’s a dermatologist influencer who’s an official LRP ambassador and, as far as I know, never discloses it when she recommends their products—though this seems to be improving gradually.) It’s also more expensive than the Allie gel and I can only find it online, but the latter is less of a problem now that I’ve been ordering more things online anyway (covid).

Based on the Surfer’s Diane milk, I figured I should stick to combination or chemical sunscreens, and based on the Canmake gel, I figured I should probably also stick to water resistant sunscreens. (So I might as well just use the Allie gel, but like everyone else, I’m always looking for something even better.) This one has only chemical filters and contains no alcohol. There’s no white cast to start with—the Allie gel goes on white but settles in (in my case)—and with chemical UV filters only, I’m guessing there would probably be no white cast for anyone. It seemed a bit different from any other sunscreen I’ve used in the past, and I thought I would give it a try.

This product taught me what it’s like to have sunscreen sting your eyes. I’ve heard about this, but I never thought it would hurt so much and for so long. It didn’t happen every time I used the sunscreen, so I thought it was something else at first. It gets so bad that I actually can’t keep my eyes open. The first time, I had to spend a whole day and the next morning in bed, and the second time, the majority of two and a half days. I’m still not sure what exactly caused it, but WOW does it hurt. I think it probably drags on in my case because of my contacts (I wear two-week lenses and happened to switch them out the first time, which is probably why it only lasted for a day; I ended up having to throw out four-day-old lenses the second time and I’m still bitter about it). It’s been over a month since I stopped using this product and my eyes are still more sensitive than they used to be. I also developed really bad dry eye symptoms that are finally easing up, after three months of various attempts to get my eyes back to normal. All in all, a truly horrible experience. They say it’s safe to use on two-year-olds, and all I can say is that I hope to god the kid isn’t sensitive to whatever I am.

I also found a number of seemingly fake or otherwise (unclearly) incentivized* reviewers on a popular cosmetics review website, and out of the eight I’ve looked into, six of them left 5–7 star reviews (out of 7 stars) for this product within the span of three days, mostly within two. They did tick the “Monitor/Gift” box (as opposed to having purchased the product), but you can’t tell based on the review text. Now, Nalc is absolutely by no means the only brand that does this. It’s not even as bad as some other brands that use them for multiple products and/or have their reviews marked as being based on purchased products (but maybe they are and then they’re compensated later or something, who knows), and I’m sure this is something that’s done all the time by lots of brands on lots of platforms, but it’s always disappointing to see it in action.

* To be clear, “monitor” reviewers and “campaign” participants who receive products or maybe a discount of some kind in exchange for reviews are incredibly common on that website. Other products in this post have incentivized reviews on there, too. Sometimes the campaigns are run by the companies/brands, and sometimes it’s by the website itself. Some of them seem to be honest reviews, but many basically just repeat whatever is in the product’s marketing materials and/or are super short and come across as filler reviews for the purpose of pushing the product up the website’s rankings. They are so common that I would even say it’s standard practice (most or many of them state in their reviews that they are “monitors” or that they’re participating in a “campaign,” which makes it look extra shady when they don’t), and I don’t know whether any of them are literally paid for their reviews, but I still consider them to be incentivized if the reviewers are compensated in any way at all, whether it’s the product itself received as a gift or some kind of a discount.

Maybe this wasn’t done by the brand but by some other party (like maybe one of their sellers or something), and maybe these people were actually supposed to clearly state that their reviews are incentivized, but the brand also claims that this sunscreen has ranked #1 out of 200,000,000 items on Rakuten Ichiba (as of July 9, 2018). I looked into archived versions of their Rakuten Ichiba listing, and as it turns out, they had just come out with the product at that time and were selling it for over 25% off until July 9. So it probably was briefly true, but it seems manipulative and misleading all the same. Again, it’s probably what a ton of brands do, but it’s one of those things I just can’t unsee once I’ve noticed it.

It did however feel like it might possibly be more hydrating on my cheeks than the Allie gel, though it might have dried me out more at the end of the day (but that might be from other factors). I can see it being a good, zero white cast cosmetically elegant option if it doesn’t kill your eyes (for example, u/randdomizme3 posted a positive first impression review here), but I did later notice some other reviewers who say it burned their eyes. I don’t have any reason to doubt the SPF 50+ PA++++ claims, but I’ve also spent most of my time wearing it in a dark room lying in bed with tears and eye drops all over my face (= the other factors) so I can’t vouch for it in any way. I’ve put it away for now and am planning to wear it on my legs in the summer.

Update in June: I tried applying this on my ankles on a trial basis, and even though I washed my hands well (but admittedly not coming-home-from-outside-during-the-pandemic levels of scrubbing), my eyes hurt a little by the afternoon and into the next day. Not debilitatingly bad, but it’s enough for me to give up on even using this on my legs. My eyes otherwise haven’t been hurting so much lately, since I’m only using either the Allie or the X-barrier sunscreens, but I still have dry eye symptoms that I didn’t have before I used the Nalc sunscreen. I hate to be wasteful, but this feels really dangerous for my eyes and I’m throwing it out.

And final update in November: I think I was still using eye drops every single day around September, slowing down gradually until my eyes are finally feeling mostly fine now in November. That’s more than half a year since April!

Ingredients: Water, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Octinoxate), Butylene Glycol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB aka Unvinul A Plus), Cyclopentasiloxane, Polysilicone-15 (aka Parsol SLX), Diethylhexyl Sebacate, Dimethicone, Pentylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether, BHT, T-Butyl Alcohol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sophora Root Extract

Disclaimer: I’m just a bilingual sunscreen enthusiast with no background in science. If you’re allergic to anything, double-check to make sure I didn’t get anything wrong.

6. Skin Aqua Super Moisture Essence Gold

Product info

• Product name in Japanese: スキンアクア スーパーモイスチャーエッセンス ゴールド
• Version: 2021 formula made and distributed in Japan by Rohto
• Rating/Category: SPF 50+ PA++++ / Essence / Water resistant
• Links: Rohto product catalogue entry, RatzillaCosme
• List price: 1210 JPY incl. tax for 80 g = 15.125 JPY/g (usually available for less)
• Marketing claims: Non-sticky finish; highest-class UV protection in the Skin Aqua series (along with the Super Moisture Gel Gold); applies evenly, “block veil formula” for closer adhesion to skin; hydrating; doesn’t get sticky with sweat; UV protection not easily affected by light (I guess they mean the filters are photostabilized further than in their other formulas); “aller-defense” technology to block airborne particles (pollen, PM2.5, dust, etc.); hypoallergenic; fragrance-free, artificial colorant-free, mineral oil-free, paraben-free; “super waterproof” and resistant to sweat and water; can be washed off with soap (i.e., second cleanser or body wash); for face and body, works as makeup primer
• UV filters: Organic (chemical) – Octinoxate, Bemotrizinol aka Tinosorb S, DHHB aka Unvinul A Plus, Bisoctrizole aka Tinosorb M

My thoughts

• Period used: May–October 2021, or ongoing if I weren’t fully covered every day (review mostly written in May 2021)
• TL;DR rating: RP as a body sunscreen, mostly for its price

I’d been meaning to give Skin Aqua’s sunscreens a try but hadn’t gotten around to it, aside from one of the tone-up sunscreens reviewed here. They actually seem to be more popular outside of Japan; you only really hear about the tone-up sunscreens here (or at least that’s always been the case for me). I picked this one after reading u/ayimera’s review and its comments, and because the “Gold” sunscreens are the flagship products of the Skin Aqua line. There’s also a gel version that’s been around for a bit longer—the gel was launched on February 15, 2020, and the essence on February 2, 2021—and generally speaking, if there’s both a gel and an essence in the same line, the essence should be more moisturizing. Also, the essence contains an additional UV filter (Tinosorb M).

As an aside, there were only two reviews for this product when I first checked on the website I mention in the Nalc review. Both of them were incentivized reviews for the gel version that were accidentally posted under the essence. Yes, Rohto definitely does incentivized reviews too, though unlike the Nalc reviews I complain about, they clearly state that they’re participating in some kind of a campaign run by Rohto—something I see for tons of Rohto products. (They aren’t alone in this, though. I’ve seen campaigns of this sort from other major reputable corporations here, too. Just wanted to demonstrate how widespread this is.)

This sunscreen is the cheapest per gram among the sunscreens reviewed in this post that are measured in grams (even according to the list price; I actually bought my tube for 806 JPY, which comes out to 10.075 JPY/g, or less than half of the cost for the Allie gel), making it even more cost effective than the Canmake sunscreens. I can see how this would be especially attractive when people are paying marked-up prices in other countries.

There are hardly any reviews for this product out there (in May 2021)—at the time that I am writing this, it’s only been a few months since it was released—but reviews for the gel version suggest that it might possibly be meant for daily use rather than, say, going to the beach. One of the taglines on the brand page describes it as a “daily UV”—they call sunscreen “UV” in Japan and it drives me nuts—for people who are actively enjoying their summers (「気持ちよいのに、絶対焼かない。夏をアクティブに楽しむ人のデイリーUV誕生」), though I guess that’s open to interpretation. Neither the gel nor the essence are specifically recommended for water sports and the like on Rohto’s website, in spite of their “super waterproof” marketing. (“Super waterproof” seems to usually mean that it has passed an 80-minute water resistance test.) They also don’t have any prominent indications that the product is meant for the beach etc. on the packaging like a lot of other SPF 50+ water resistant sunscreens do. They do however mention going to the beach, going hiking, and other sports (or, more literally, the ocean, mountains, and sports) as examples of situations where you would need to reapply frequently in the usage instructions in small print on the back.

My eyes are still more sensitive than usual after having stopped using the Nalc sunscreen for more than a month (as of when I am writing this), and at this point, it’s hard to tell whether something really is stinging my eyes or whether it’s just residual stinging from before. Other (non-sunscreen) skincare products that I’ve been using without any problems can sting my eyes a little now, a problem I never had before the Nalc product. While wearing the Skin Aqua sunscreen, my eyes felt fine on some days, mild stinging on some other days, and intense stinging on one day—not to the point where I had to entirely give up on keeping my eyes open at all, but I did have to put my computer monitor on f.lux’s Darkroom mode and step away to use eye drops frequently—at which point I decided to stop using this on my face and to use it on my arms, just to be safe. I’m guessing that I would probably be fine using this if my eyes weren’t extra sensitized like they are now, so I may possibly give it another try some day, but for now, I’m thinking about using this as a body sunscreen because of how affordable it is. (My allergy symptoms are also a lot more mild on my body, so I’m less picky in that respect, too.)

I can’t tell you what I think in terms of protection because I didn’t really have the chance to test it out properly before it started hurting my eyes, but I agree that it feels very cosmetically elegant. It feels like a refreshing splash of hydration when I apply it, but I don’t feel any less dry/dehydrated than I do with the Allie gel by the end of the day. (So maybe the Allie gel isn’t making me any more dry/dehydrated than I already am anyway, after all.) What’s really notable is that once it absorbs, you can hardly tell that you’re wearing any sunscreen at all. It feels so non-existent that I realized that I actually kind of like how I can definitely feel that the Allie gel forms a thin layer on top of my skin, because knowing that the protection is there gives me peace of mind and it’s easier to gage whether I need to reapply soon. To each their own, though, and I think this one would probably be more comfortable than the Allie gel for oily skin.

And as of July, I have been using this on my body regularly, and non-scrubbing levels of hand-washing is sufficient to keep my eyes from burning. I’ve already purchased multiple tubes as a body sunscreen, but I still haven’t been outside much at all while the sun is out and can’t really say whether it seems highly protective or not. The fluorescent light that I mention in the Canmake review (the Clear version) actually broke a couple of months ago, so I haven’t even been able to test it under that, either, and my body doesn’t show symptoms as easily as my face, anyway.

Ingredients: Water, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Octinoxate), Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Diethylhexyl Succinate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Bemotrizinol aka Tinosorb S), Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB aka Unvinul A Plus), Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Arginine, Silica, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Bisoctrizole aka Tinosorb M), Triethylhexanoin, PEG-40 Stearate, Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Polysilicone-13, Triethanolamine, Decyl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Polystyrene, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaisostearate, Propylene Glycol, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Glycerin

Disclaimer: I’m just a bilingual sunscreen enthusiast with no background in science. If you’re allergic to anything, double-check to make sure I didn’t get anything wrong.

7. X-Barrier Skin Protect UV Cream

Product info

• Product name in Japanese: エクスバリア スキンプロテクト UVクリーム
• Images: https://imgur.com/a/kzHhhSP
• Version: 2021 formula made by Cosme Labo and distributed by Dr. Phil Cosmetics in Japan (both Dr. Phil Cosmetics and Cosme Labo are part of the Kosé Group)
• Rating/Category: SPF 50+ PA++++ / Cream / No water resistance claims Water resistant (see bottom of comment)
• Links: Official website
• List price: 3080 JPY incl. tax for 50 g = 61.6 JPY/g
• Marketing claims: Blocks dust and other airborne particles; 65% composed of moisturizing ingredients; contains SakuranTM (Aphanothece Sacrum Polysaccharides), which holds approx. 5 times as much water as Hyaluronic Acid and functions as a moisture barrier; “dry defense” formula to retain moisture; applies easily, no white cast, feels light, not dehydrating; washes off easily with face wash/body wash; can be used as a makeup primer; chemical UV filter-free, fragrance-free, colorant-free, paraben-free, alcohol-free (ethyl alcohol-free), mineral oil-free; passed allergy tests, patch tests, and stinging tests
• UV filters: Inorganic (mineral) – Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide

My thoughts

• Period used: As a face sunscreen for a little over a week in May, and still using it up on my hands after that (review mostly written in June 2021)
• TL;DR rating: RP as a body sunscreen, mostly for its price

This is also a new product that was launched on February 16, 2021. Because of the condition with my eyes, I thought it might be worth trying something extra gentle until things calm down. I found this product through a personal project I started, a huge spreadsheet with a whole bunch of different sunscreens currently available in Japan. I had never heard of Dr. Phil Cosmetics—no, no connection with the Dr. Phil that fellow Americans would be thinking of—but they’re part of the Kosé Group. I’m not sure but I think it’s kind of like Dr. Jart in that there is no actual Dr. Phil involved (I could be wrong). Their products seem to (either partly or generally) be manufactured by a company called Cosme Labo, which is also part of the Kosé Group. Among their brands, X-Barrier seems to be focused on repairing the moisture barrier. It stood out to me in my spreadsheet for being a sunscreen with mineral filters that’s meant for dry, sensitive skin and is SPF 50+ PA++++ and is fragrance-free and isn’t an OEM product (which wouldn’t necessarily be a deal-breaker, but I feel better buying OBM sunscreens from solidly established major corporations after learning about what happened in Korea). Or maybe it technically isn’t an OBM product, but it’s all within the Kosé Group. It’s also alcohol-free, for those of you who are concerned with that. The catch (for me) is that it’s not water resistant.

First things first, the tube is pretty small, especially considering how much it costs. I should have known based on the quantity being given as 50 g, but these things never really sink in until I have the actual product in front of me. It’s over 2.5 times more expensive than the Allie gel per gram, so before I even received my order, I already knew I wouldn’t be buying this on a regular basis. This was strictly a temporary emergency measure out of wanting to do anything I can to get my eyes to go back to normal.

The product feels like a very heavy moisturizing cream, and I would never recommend it for anyone who has oily skin. I would say it’s greasy, probably from all the emollients high up on the ingredient list, but not in the same way as I remember American sunscreens being in the distant past. I can see it being great for when my skin is super dry to the point of flaking and cracking. I think it’s actually too heavy for me right now, now that the rainy season is here and the humidity is really high, and that’s saying a lot because I still use Weleda Skin Food and petroleum jelly on a daily basis. I developed a few pimples in areas where I don’t frequently break out that weren’t deeply cystic (unlike the seemingly hormonal acne I was struggling with until this spring) and no longer appeared when I stopped using the product. I’ve had moderate/severe acne all over my face in the past, though, so I don’t know 100% for sure whether this was because of this product or not.

It also initially goes on very white, and you have to work it in very well, at which point it looks like a subtle tone-up finish on me. It’s hardly noticeable once I wait for it to settle, but it seems to take longer to settle in than other products, and I would really hate to use it for reapplying away from home. It definitely doesn’t seem to settle in on its own and requires a lot of rubbing (though it’s possible that this wouldn’t be so much of a problem if I used less than I’m accustomed to), but because of the heavy cream-like texture (more slip), I don’t feel as uncomfortable about working the product into my skin as I do with other mineral sunscreens I’ve used.

Again, I haven’t spent any time outside in sunlight while using this product and can’t really tell you what I think in terms of protection.

I’m currently using it up on the backs of my hands so that it can double as hand cream. I don’t apply as much as I do on my face, and with that amount there is no discernible white cast to start with (on me, at least).

Added later: I realized that they do mention in the marketing text that the product is resistant to (or not easily affected by) sweat and water. Previously I thought that actual water resistance claims were made specifically with the terms “waterproof” and “super waterproof,” but I learned later on that this can vary completely from brand to brand, so I guess this is their water resistance claim. (Water resistance claims in Japan are scheduled to be regulated starting from December 2022.)

Ingredients: Zinc Oxide, Cyclomethicone, Water, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol, Isotridecyl Isononanoate, Dimethicone, Titanium Dioxide, Lauroyl Lysine, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Glycerin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tremella Fuciformis (Silver Ear Mushroom) Extract, Aphanothece Sacrum (Blue-Green Algae) Polysaccharide, Serine, Tocopherol, Panthenol, Saxifraga Sarmentosa (Strawberry Geranium) Extract, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol (My translation; bear in mind that I’m not an expert and could have made mistakes)

Disclaimer: I’m just a bilingual sunscreen enthusiast with no background in science. If you’re allergic to anything, double-check to make sure I didn’t get anything wrong.

8. La Roche-Posay Uvidea XL BB Cream in 01 Light

Product info

• Product name in Japanese: ラ ロッシュ ポゼ UVイデア XL プロテクションBB 01 ライト・透明感のある明るい印象の仕上がり
• Product name in English: La Roche-Posay Uvidea XL BB Cream (as given on the official website, the back of the tube in Japanese, and elsewhere) or La Roche-Posay Uvidea Anthelios BB Cream (as it says on the front of the tube in English) in 01 Light
• Images: https://imgur.com/a/BXX2w4a
• Version: Made in France by La Roche-Posay and distributed by NLO (presumably Nihon L’Oréal) in Japan
• Rating/Category: SPF 50+ PA++++ / BB cream / No water resistance claims
• Links: Japanese website, Australian website (although the ingredient list is different on there)
• List price: 3740 JPY incl. tax for 30 mL = 124.666666667 JPY/mL
• Marketing claims: Pretty much the same claims as what’s on the Australian website. Note that they don’t officially make any claims about blocking blue light.
• UV filters: Combination – Octinoxate, Drometrizole Trisiloxane aka Mexoryl XL, Titanium Dioxide, Ecamsule aka Mexoryl SX, DHHB aka Unvinul A Plus

Additional premise re: blue light

• I don’t experience symptoms from using my phone or my TV, but I do have a three-monitor set-up for my computer that really wrecks my skin, specifically the 27" monitor that sits right in front of me. I know it would be easiest to just put a blue light film on my monitors, but that’s not an option for me. I do use Night Shift/f.lux when possible. I always wondered why my allergy symptoms would show up when I’m pulling all-nighters (after washing off my makeup), and why reapplying sunscreen or wearing masks didn’t help. Figuring this out has been the biggest step forward by far in my skincare journey over the past few years.
• And then in late August, I learned that there are blue light protector panels that you can hang from the top of your monitor, rather than films that you stick directly on the surface. I ordered one and it’s working out beautifully, but I still use this BB cream if I’m going to be on my computer for an extra long time and/or need to remove the panel. Bear in mind that this review was written before I found this.

My thoughts

• Period used: Some time in the 2010s–around 2019 and February 2021 onward (review mostly written in March 2021)
• TL;DR rating: RP for blue light protection

(I know this doesn’t actually count as sunscreen, but I cake on a whole lot of it if I’m staying home all day and no one will see me, concentrating on the areas where my allergy symptoms especially show up.)

LRP is obviously not an AB brand, but I couldn’t find the product on the French, American, Canadian, or British websites, and it seems like the Uvidea XL line as a whole is specifically meant for the Asia/Oceania market. The Australian website even has the “Dermatologically tested on Asian sensitive skin” tagline, just like the Japanese website (and maybe others), so I’m guessing it may have been developed in Asia. The shade names and ranges seem to differ to some extent depending on the country; in Japan, there are only two shades for this BB cream, which is going to really limit its accessibility for a lot of people. So I can’t recommend it widely, but I feel like my skin does better when I wear this, so I thought I would sneak it in here at toward the end. I also noticed that the Australian website provides a different ingredient list from what’s given in Japan, so keep in mind that this review is for the product as sold in Japan and may not be 100% the same as what’s sold in other countries.

I was using this regularly for several years, from some time in the 2010s up to around 2019, when I decided to try wearing “actual” foundation instead, and then I stopped wearing makeup almost entirely in 2020 because of the pandemic. In doing more research about how I can manage my photosensitivity symptoms brought on by sitting in front of my computer, I concluded that Iron Oxides are my best bet (since I can’t put a blue light filter on my monitor) and decided to start wearing this BB cream again specifically for this purpose. LRP doesn’t make any claims regarding blue light protection with this product, but according to Lab Muffin (in this video), you need pigmentary Titanium Dioxide and red/yellow/black Iron Oxides for blue light protection, and this product contains all four. (I also found this study on Iron Oxides and blue light protection, but note that it was sponsored by Colorscience.) Dr. Dray has said in more than one video that the specific formulation also matters, though, so technically this product may not qualify. I’m strictly talking about my own experience here, so maybe the placebo effect is also involved. I will however note again that I noticed in the past (before 2019) that my symptoms would show up when I’m pulling all-nighters, specifically after I’ve washed my face and taken my makeup (including this BB cream) off, so then I would try putting on sunscreen again to no avail. Being in front of the monitor for that long is surely the main factor, but I think taking off my makeup was also working against me.

Aside from blue light, recently I learned that this product is (probably) PPD 34 according to the Taiwanese website, though obviously you’d have to put on a ridiculous-looking amount to achieve the full PPD. (To anyone who doesn’t already know, there’s no way you would get the full protection indicated by the SPF/PA ratings on makeup using normal amounts.) I tried e-mailing LRP Japan about this to check whether the same numbers apply for the Japanese version, but they didn’t give me a real answer, as expected. They might technically have a different product in Taiwan, but I found this photo of the product as sold there, which seems to suggest that they actually import the Japanese version, at least for this color. (I checked just in case, and they do have the same ingredient list, although that still doesn’t necessarily mean 100% for sure that they have the same formulation. But I’m guessing they probably do.) As you can see in the photo, they have clearly affixed a label that says the product is PPD 34 on what appears to be the packaging as sold in Japan.

As I said, there are two shades available in Japan: 01 Light, which is pink-based, and 02 Natural, which is yellow-based (see images link for swatches). I would describe my skin tone as a yellowish pale, NC15/N12 or similar according to Findation (Clio Kill Cover Founwear Cushion XP in 03 Linen/No. 21 is a fairly good match). 01 Light looks natural on me with a light hand; I tried a tester for 02 Natural once and it was very orange on me. Neither of the shades work for my mother, who’s probably somewhere in between. 01 looks gray on her and 02 looks orange. The three shades in Australia (01 Light, 02 Medium, 03 Fair) look like different shades of pale on the computer screen, as do the three shades in Taiwan (01 自然色, 02 健康色, 03 粉嫩色) and the two shades in Hong Kong (01 透亮膚色, 02 自然膚色; images no longer on website), so definitely pass on this if you have a darker skin tone. It was also on the LRP Thailand website when I first started working on this post, but the product seems to have disappeared entirely.

Basically I would recommend this as a high-SPF/PA BB cream for people with lighter skin tones and relatively sensitive skin, but make sure to wear it on top of “real” sunscreen, because putting a lot of this product on will look really weird. I don’t know whether it’s necessarily any better than other BB creams or liquid foundations because I haven’t used many, but I trust LRP sunscreens and I feel better using something that’s likely to be effective in case I displace any regular sunscreen in the process of applying it. (But I imagine you probably wouldn’t need to be so thorough about these things if you don’t have a sun allergy and aren’t particularly predisposed to UV-induced skin cancer.) I also like that it’s fragrance free, though I kind of like the fragrance in the Clio cushion I mentioned. It does feel like it might be a touch drying, but it’s much less uncomfortable for me than when I sit in front of my monitor without any protection.

A note for the covid era: Don’t expect this to stay put under a mask. Maybe this could be resolved with the right setting spray, but just FYI.

As an aside, LRP’s Uvidea XL Protection Tone-Up Creams (SPF 50+ PA++++ or PPD 18.1 according to the Taiwanese website—again, I don’t know whether this applies for other countries as well) in white and pink (especially pink) seem to be extremely popular as makeup primers in Japan. (The Uvidea line as a whole is marketed as makeup primers for incidental sun exposure.) These aren’t on the Australian website and may only be available in Asia. I tried the white version a long time ago, but I personally found it more prone to pilling than the BB cream (but maybe that was because of my skincare at the time). It also just looked like a more even version of a white cast to me, which is how I feel about “tone-up” products in general. There’s also a regular sunscreen and a tinted sunscreen in the Uvidea line in Japan, and I’ve used a tiny tester tube of the regular sunscreen a long time ago (don’t know whether it would still be the same formulation now) and all I remember is that it had excellent cosmetic elegance. I would have bought the full tube if it weren’t (currently) 3740 JPY for 30 g.

Ingredients as written in English on the box: Aqua / Water • CI 77891 / Titanium Dioxide • Ethyhexyl Methoxycinnamate • Glycerin • Drometrizole Trisiloxane • Dimethicone • Alcohol Denat. • Titanium Dioxide • Trephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid • Propylene Glycol • Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate • Triethanolamine • Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine • Stearic Acid • CI 77491, CI 77492, CI77499 / Iron Oxides • Potassium Cetyl Phosphate • Pentylene Glycol • Aluminum Hydroxide • BHT • Butylene Glycol • Butyrospermum Parkii Seedcake Extract / Shea Butter Seedcake Extract • Caprylyl Glycol • Carbomer • Carnosine • Cetyl Alcohol • Disodium EDTA • Glyceryl Stearate • Myristic Acid • Myristyl Alcohol • Palmitic Acid • PEG-100 Stearate • Phenoxyethanol • Sodium Chloride • Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate • Stearyl Alcohol • Tocopherol • Tromethamine • Xantham Gum

* CI 77891 = Titanium White, Ethyhexyl Methoxycinnamate = Octinoxate, Drometrizole Trisiloxane = Mexoryl XL, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid = Ecamsule aka Mexoryl SX, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate = DHHB aka Unvinul A Plus, CI 77491 = Iron Oxide Red, CI 77492 = Iron Oxide Yellow, CI 77499 = Iron Oxide Black

9. Bioré UV Aqua Rich Aqua Protect Lotion

Product info

• Product name in Japanese: ビオレUV アクアリッチ アクアプロテクトローション aka 水層パックUV
• Images: / “Virtual tester” video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dv4KDyCpIxI
• Version: Made and distributed by Kao in Japan; limited edition, only available in Matsumotokiyoshi Group drugstores (Matsumotokiyoshi, Cocokara Fine, Papasu)
• Rating/Category: SPF 50+ PA++++ / Liquid / Water resistant
• Links: Official website
• List price: 1078 JPY incl. tax for 70 mL = 15.4 JPY/mL (but I used a free sample)
• Marketing claims: Feels like water; contains “aqua capsules” with UV filters that burst on contact with skin for seamless application; spreads easily; dewy finish; compatible with makeup; “super waterproof” (probably meaning that it passed an 80 min. water resistance test); no white cast; non-comedogenic; hypoallergenic; for face and body
• UV filters: Organic (chemical) – Octinoxate, Octyltriazone aka Uvinul T 150, DHHB aka Unvinul A Plus, Bemotrizinol aka Tinosorb S

My thoughts

• Period used: Two days in August 2021 (review written in August)
• TL;DR rating: WNRP because it’s sticky and too fragrant (but no more fragrant than other Bioré UV products)

I was curious about this sunscreen when it was announced but passed on it assuming I wouldn’t like the fragrance. (There was a post about this product being lauched on this sub.) This isn’t a full review because I only used a pair of tiny 1.8 mL sample pouches that were attached to an unrelated Bioré product that I bought from a drugstore in the Matsumotokiyoshi Group. I figured it would be on the liquidy side of regular milk sunscreens, but it really is as liquid as they claim. If you drip the product directly onto your arm (like I did at first), you’re pretty much guaranteed to spill a few drops. It would be a good idea to pour the product out onto your cupped hand before you apply it anywhere (as they recommend).

This product has a stickier finish than most (or maybe any?) of the sunscreens I’ve ever used. It’s definitely much stickier than the Skin Aqua essence, which quickly dries down to pretty much feel like nothing’s there, and I would even say it’s stickier than the Allie gel, too. I guess the stickiness does gradually dissipate somewhat, but it takes way too long to feel comfortable as a body sunscreen. My arms felt gross enough in the high humidity here that I ended up putting powder over it. (This might not be as bad in drier climates.) Aside from the stickiness, I guess it felt pretty lightweight, but the stickiness bothered me enough that I didn’t really take note of this. I think it could potentially work as a face sunscreen, though; it does feel pretty lightweight, and the stickiness might even be conducive to wearing makeup over it. I didn’t put the samples on my face, though, and am just speculating.

Another thing is that—as expected—the “Fresh Floral” fragrance is too strong for me and not to my taste. I also find other Bioré UV products (and most other fragranced sunscreens) too fragrant, though, so if you’re fine with those, you’ll probably be fine with this one, too. For example, I recently used up a leftover tube of Bioré UV Athlizm Essence, and the fragrance bothered me all day every day; it didn’t bother me as much before, so I guess I got too used to fragrance-free products over the course of the pandemic.

Because it’s only available in Matsumotokiyoshi Group stores, I would imagine the only way to buy it from outside of Japan would be through forwarding services. As of August 12, it’s no longer in stock on Matsumotokiyoshi’s online store, but it’s still available on Cocokara Fine’s online store (and in physical stores).

Ingredients: Water, Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Octinoxate), Glycerin, Silica, Ethylhexyl Triazone (Octyltriazone aka Uvinul T 150), Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB aka Unvinul A Plus), Glyceryl Stearate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Bemotrizinol aka Tinosorb S), Dextrin Palmitate, Agar, Cellulose, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polysilicone-9, Sodium Hydroxide, Royal Jelly Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Parfum/Fragrance

Disclaimer: I’m just a bilingual sunscreen enthusiast with no background in science. If you’re allergic to anything, double-check to make sure I didn’t get anything wrong.